It is pieces of hardened rice cakes that are steamed for softness and then pan fried with sesame oil and spicy fermented soy bean paste and other ingredients. It's spicy and a little sweet and the pan frying creates a bit of a nice crusty-burnt texture.
Picture is from Seriouseats.com.
Having been in Seoul the summer of 2006 (or it might have been 2007?), I looked forward to getting some on the streets yet every place we went to, the tteokbokki there wasn't pan fried but in a soupy sauce. I like that well enough, but it doesn't compare to the pan fried. I was disappointed and never bought any. I started to think maybe my memories weren't up to par and that I possibly dreamt it all?
But having seen this and realizing the pan fried method was "old school" (oy I feel old!) it was nice to know it's coming back. Even so, it's easy enough to make, so I don't see why I should yearn - I just need to cook!
p.s. I asked a while ago what happened to that halmoni. My relatives told me she made so much money, she retired and enjoyed her life. That's pretty cool.
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